Cosmetic and dermatological preparations comprising an effective content of bile acids, their salts and/or their derivatives

ABSTRACT

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations having an effective content of bile acids, their salts and/or their derivatives, it being possible for said active ingredients to be present either individually or as a mixture.

The present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatologicalpreparations having an effective content of bile acids, their saltsand/or their derivatives, and to the use thereof for strengthening thebarrier function of the skin.

The skin is the largest human organ. Amongst its many functions (forexample for temperature regulation and as a sensory organ) the barrierfunction, which prevents the skin (and thus ultimately the entireorganism) from drying out, is probably the most important. At the sametime, the skin acts as a protective device against the penetration andabsorption of external substances. This barrier function is effected bythe epidermis which, as the outermost layer, forms the actual protectivesheath against the environment. Being about one tenth of the totalthickness, it is also the thinnest layer of the skin.

The epidermis is a stratified tissue in which the outer layer, the hornylayer (Stratum corium), is the part which is of significance for thebarrier function. Being in contact with the environment, it is worn awayand therefore finds itself in a continuous process of renewal, where, onthe outside, fine flakes are continuously shed and, on the inside,keratinized cell and lipid material is subsequently produced.

The Elias skin model, which is currently recognized in the specialistfield (P. M. Elias, Structure and Function of the Stratum CorneumPermeability Barrier, Drug Dev. Res. 13, 1988, 97–105), describes thehorny layer as a two-component system, similar to a brick wall (bricksand mortar model). In this model, the horny cells (corneocytes)correspond to the bricks, and the lipid membrane, which is of complexcomposition, in the intercellular spaces corresponds to the mortar. Thissystem essentially represents a physical barrier to hydrophilicsubstances, but, because of its narrow and multilayered structure, canequally, however, also be passed by lipophilic substances only withdifficulty. The particular structure of the horny layer on the one handprotects the skin and on the other hand stabilizes its own flexibilityby binding a defined amount of water.

Mechanical stresses, such as, for example, compressive forces, impactsor shear forces, can also be intercepted to a surprising degree by thehorny layer alone or in conjunction with the deeper layers of the skin.Relatively large compressive forces, torsional forces or shear forcesare transmitted to deeper layers of the skin via the meshing of theepidermis with the corium.

The regulation of the water and moisture content is one of the mostimportant functions of the epidermal lipid membrane. However, it notonly has a barrier effect against external chemical and physicalinfluences, but also contributes to the holding together of the hornylayer.

The lipids of the horny layer essentially consist of ceramides, freefatty acids, cholesterol and cholesterol sulfate and are distributedover the entire horny layer. The composition of these lipids is ofdecisive importance for the intact function of the epidermal barrier andthus for the water impermeability of the skin.

Even cleansing the skin using a simple waterbath—without the addition ofsurfactants—initially causes the horny layer of the skin to swell. Thedegree of this swelling depends inter alia on the bathing time andtemperature. At the same time, water-soluble substances are washed offor out, such as e.g. water-soluble constituents of dirt, but alsosubstances endogenous to the skin which are responsible for thewater-binding capacity of the horny layer. In addition, as a result ofsurface-active substances which are endogenous to the skin, fats in theskin are also dissolved and washed out to a certain degree. Afterinitial swelling, this causes a subsequent drying-out of the skin, whichmay be further considerably intensified by washing-active additives.

In healthy skin, these processes are generally of no consequence sincethe protective mechanisms of the skin are able to readily compensate forsuch slight disturbances to the upper layers of the skin. However, evenin the case of nonpathological deviations from the norm, e.g. as aresult of wear damage or irritations caused by the environment,photodamage, aging skin etc., the protective mechanism on the surface ofthe skin is impaired.

In aged skin, for example, regenerative renewal takes place at a slowerrate, where, in particular, the water-binding capacity of the hornylayer decreases. The skin thus becomes inflexible, dry and chapped(“physiologically” dry skin). Barrier damage is the result. The skinbecomes susceptible to negative environmental effects, such as theinvasion of microorganisms, toxins and allergens. As a consequence,toxic or allergic skin reactions may even result.

In the case of pathologically dry and sensitive skin, barrier damage ispresent a priori. Epidermal intercellular lipids become obviouslydefective or are formed in an inadequate amount or composition. Theconsequence is increased permeability of the horny layer and inadequateprotection of the skin against loss of hygroscopic substances and water.

The barrier effect of the skin can be quantified via the determinationof the transepidermal water loss (TEWL). This is the evaporation ofwater from inside the body without taking into account the loss of waterduring perspiration. Determination of the TEWL value has proven to beextraordinarily informative and can be used to diagnose chapped orcracked skin, for determining the compatibility of surfactants whichhave very different chemical structures, and more besides.

For the beauty and well cared-for appearance of the skin, the proportionof water in the uppermost layer of the skin is of greatest significance.It can be favorably influenced within a limited scope by introducingmoisture regulators.

Anionic surfactants, which are generally constituents of cleansingpreparations, can lastingly increase the pH in the horny layer, whichseverely hinders regenerative processes which serve to restore and renewthe barrier function of the skin. In this case, a new, frequently veryunfavorable state of equilibrium is established in the horny layerbetween regeneration and the loss of essential substances as a result ofregular extraction; this state has a decisive adverse effect on theouter appearance of the skin and the physiological mode of function ofthe horny layer.

For the purposes of the present invention, skin care is understoodprimarily as meaning that the natural function of the skin as a barrieragainst environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms)and against the loss of substances endogenous to the body (e.g. water,lipids, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

Products for the care, treatment and cleansing of dry and stressed skinare known per se. However, their contribution to the regeneration of aphysiologically intact, hydrated and smooth horny layer is limited withregard to extent and time.

The effect of ointments and creams on the barrier function and thehydration of the horny layer is based essentially on the coverage(occlusion) of the areas of skin treated. The ointment or creamrepresents, as it were, a (second) artificial barrier which is intendedto prevent loss of water by the skin. It is equally easy to remove thisphysical barrier, for example using cleansers, again, as a result ofwhich the original, impaired state is again achieved. Moreover, the skincare effect can decrease upon regular treatment. After use of theproduct is stopped, the skin reverts very quickly to the state prior tothe start of treatment. In the case of certain products, the conditionof the skin is even temporarily worsened in some circumstances. Apermanent product effect is therefore generally not achieved or achievedonly to a limited extent.

The effect of some pharmaceutical preparations on the barrier functionof the skin consists even in selected damage to the barrier, which isintended to permit active ingredients to be able to penetrate into orthrough the skin into the body. Here, a disturbed appearance of the skinas a side effect is accepted to some extent as a small price to pay.

The effect of caring cleansing products consists essentially in anefficient refatting with sebum lipid-like substances. The simultaneousreduction in the surfactant content of such preparations permits afurther limitation of the damage to the horny layer barrier.

However, the prior art lacks preparations which have a positive effecton the barrier function and hydration of the horny layer and enhance oreven restore the physicochemical properties of the horny layer and, inparticular, of the lamellae comprising intercellular lipids.

The object of the present invention was therefore to overcome thedisadvantages of the prior art. In particular, skin care preparationsand preparations for cleansing the skin were to be made available whichretain or restore the barrier properties of the skin, particularly whenthe natural regeneration of the skin is inadequate. They should also besuitable for the treatment and prophylaxis of secondary damage of thedrying-out of skin, for example fissures or inflammatory or allergicprocesses, or also of neurodermatitis. It was also an object of thepresent invention to provide stable skin care cosmetic and/ordermatological compositions which protect the skin against environmentalinfluences such as sun and wind. In particular, the effect of thepreparations was to be physiological, rapid and long-lasting.

Surprisingly, and in a manner which could not have been foreseen by theperson skilled in the art, these objects are achieved by

-   -   cosmetic and dermatological preparations having an effective        content of bile acids, their salts and/or their derivatives, it        being possible for said active ingredients to be present either        individually or as a mixture.

For the purposes of the present invention, “barrier strengthening” or“strengthening of the barrier function of the skin” is, in particular,to be understood as meaning the following effect: the active ingredientsaccording to the invention interact with the lipids of the horny layerin a manner such that the arrangement of these lipids in the horny layeron a molecular plane is improved. This leads to the natural function ofthe skin as a barrier against environmental influences and against theloss of substances endogenous to the body being strengthened orrestored.

In every respect the preparations according to the invention areextremely satisfactory preparations. It had been unforeseen for theperson skilled in the art that the preparations according to theinvention

-   -   better retain or restore the barrier properties of the skin,    -   better counteract drying-out of the skin,    -   better counteract skin aging and    -   better protect the skin against environmental influences than        the prior art preparations.

Bile is the exocrine secretion of the liver whose main constituents arewater (86.7%), bile acids (9.1%), bile pigments (3%), cholesterol(0.3%), and fatty acids, proteins and inorganic substances. The functionof the bile liquid within the framework of fat digestion consists in theemulsification of water-insoluble constituents of food in the intestineand in the conversion of water-insoluble compounds to resorbable choleicacids. In addition, the bile acids, which occur in the bile as salts,keep the cholesterol in solution and facilitate its elimination. Bileacids are primarily substituted cholanic acids conjugated with glycine(glycocholic acid) or taurine (taurocholic acid), which have thefollowing structural formula:

Advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are, for example,dehydrocholic acid, which is characterized by the following structure,and its salts:

Also advantageous are lithocholic acid, which is characterized by thefollowing structure, and its salts:

Also advantageous are cholic acid, which is characterized by thefollowing structure, and its salts:

Also advantageous are glycocholic acid, which is characterized by thefollowing structure, and its salts:

Also advantageous are taurolithocholic acid, which is characterized bythe following structure, and its salts, in particular its sodium salt:

Particularly preferred for the purposes of the present invention aredeoxycholic acid, which is characterized by the following structure, andits salts:

Also particularly preferred are ursodeoxycholic acid (chenodeoxycholicacid), which is characterized by the following structure, and its salts:

Also particularly preferred are taurocholic acid, which is characterizedby the following structure, and its salts, in particular its sodiumsalt:

Also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are theesters and ethers of the bile acids, in particular the esters and ethersof the aforementioned bile acids.

Bile acid ethers are obtainable by an etherification of at least one ofthe alcohol functions in position 3, 7 or 12 of the cholane ring.Particular preference is given to bile acid ethers obtainable byetherification of the alcohol function in position 3.

Advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are bile acidethers obtainable by etherification with ethylene oxide, saturatedand/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols having a chainlength of from 2 to 22 carbon atoms.

Bile acid esters are obtainable by etherification of at least one of thealcohol functions in position 3, 7 or 12 of the cholane ring, and byesterification of the terminal acid functions. Advantageous for thepurposes of the present invention are bile acid esters obtainable byesterification with saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/orunbranched acids having a chain length of from 2 to 22 carbon atoms.

Also advantageous are bile acid esters obtainable by esterification ofthe terminal acid function with ethylene oxide, saturated and/orunsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols having a chain lengthof from 2 to 22 carbon atoms.

Also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are, inparticular, the salts of the bile acids, in particular the alkali metaland/or alkaline earth metal salts, and the salts of mono- or divalentcations of elements from the transition groups, and also the lanthanidesand/or actinides. Also advantageous are bile acid salts of ammonium(—NH₃), alkanolammonium derivatives having 2 to 9 carbon atoms in total,alkyl- or alkenyl-ammonium derivatives having 1 to 22 carbon atoms intotal, pyridine, which may be substituted by an alkyl or alkenyl groupwhich has 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and basic amino acids. According to theinvention, particular preference is given to the sodium, potassiumand/or triethanolamine salts of the bile acids.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations or formulations according tothe invention can have the customary composition and be used for thetreatment, care and cleansing of the skin and/or of the hair and as amake-up product in decorative cosmetics. Accordingly, depending on theirformulation, they may be used, for example, as skin protection cream,cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nourishing cream, day cream or nightcream etc. It is optionally possible and advantageous to use thepreparations according to the invention as a base for pharmaceuticalformulations. The preparations according to the invention comprise, forexample, 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01% by weight to 1%, butin particular 0.01% by weight to 0.5% by weight, in each case based onthe total weight of the preparations of the active ingredients accordingto the invention.

Also favorable are those cosmetic and dermatological preparations whichare in the form of a sunscreen. In addition to one or more activeingredients according to the invention, these preferably comprise atleast one UV-A filter substance and/or at least one UV-B filtersubstance and/or at least one inorganic pigment.

It is, however, also advantageous for the purposes of the presentinvention to provide cosmetic and dermatological preparations whose mainpurpose is not protection against sunlight, but which neverthelesscomprise a content of UV protection substances. Thus, UV-A and UV-Bfilter substances are commonly incorporated into day creams, forexample.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the inventionmay comprise cosmetic auxiliaries as are customarily used in suchpreparations, e.g. preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, antifoams,dyes, pigments which have a coloring action, thickeners, surface-activesubstances, emulsifiers, emollients, moisturizers and/or humectants,fats, oils, waxes and other customary constituents of a cosmetic ordermatological formulation, such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foamstabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Depending on the type of product in each case, the amounts of cosmetic,dermatological or medicinal carrier substances and perfume to be used ineach case can be readily determined by the person skilled in the art bysimple exploratory experiments.

Preparations for the treatment and care of the skin are particularlypreferred.

For use, the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to theinvention are applied to the skin and/or the hair in a sufficient amountin the manner customary for cosmetics.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention mayexist in a variety of forms. Thus, for example, they may be a solution,an anhydrous preparation, an emulsion or microemulsion of thewater-in-oil (W/O) type or of the oil-in-water (O/W) type, a multipleemulsion, for example of the water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) type, a gel,a solid stick, an ointment or also an aerosol. It is also advantageousto administer the active ingredients according to the invention inencapsulated form, e.g. in collagen matrices and other customaryencapsulation materials, e.g. as cellulose encapsulations, in gelatin,wax matrices or liposomally encapsulated.

It is also possible and advantageous for the purposes of the presentinvention to incorporate the active ingredients according to theinvention into aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleansingthe skin and the hair.

In particular, the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according tothe invention may also comprise antioxidants. According to theinvention, favorable antioxidants which may be used are all theantioxidants which are suitable or customary for cosmetic and/ordermatological uses.

The antioxidants are advantageously chosen from the group consisting ofamino acids (for example glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) andderivatives thereof, imidazoles (for example urocanic acid) andderivatives thereof, peptides such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine,L-carnosine and derivatives thereof (for example anserine), carotenoids,carotenes (for example α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and derivativesthereof, chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof, lipoic acid andderivatives thereof (for example dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose,propylthiouracil and other thiols (for example thioredoxin, glutathione,cysteine, cystine, cystamine and the glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl,propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl,cholesteryl and glyceryl esters thereof) and salts thereof, dilaurylthiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid andderivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides,nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (for example buthioninesulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-,hexa- and hepta-thionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerated doses (forexample pmol to μmol/kg), and furthermore (metal) chelating agents (forexample α-hydroxy-fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin),α-hydroxy acids (for example citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid),humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTAand derivatives thereof, unsaturated fatty acids and derivatives thereof(for example γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acidand derivatives thereof, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivativesthereof, vitamin C and derivatives (for example ascorbyl palmitate, Mgascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (forexample vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin Apalmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin resin, rutic acid andderivatives thereof, α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid,furfurylideneglucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene,butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacic acid, nordihydroguaiaretic acid,trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose andderivatives thereof, zinc and derivatives thereof (for example ZnO,ZnSO₄), selenium and derivatives thereof (for example selenomethionine),stilbenes and derivatives thereof (for example stilbene oxide,trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives of these active ingredientsmentioned which are suitable according to the invention (salts, esters,ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids).

The amount of the abovementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) inthe preparations according to the invention is preferably from 0.001 to30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05–20% by weight, in particular1–10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and/or derivatives thereof is or are the antioxidant orantioxidants, it is advantageous to choose the respective concentrationsthereof from the range 0.001–10% by weight, based on the total weight ofthe formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or derivativesthereof is or are the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous tochoose the respective concentrations thereof from the range 0.001–10% byweight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

The examples below serve to illustrate the present invention withoutlimiting it. The numerical values in the examples are percentages byweight, based on the total weight of the respective preparations.

% by Example formulations: wt. 1. Lecithin fluid Lecithin 5.00Ursodeoxycholic acid 0.50 Cetearyl alcohol 1.00 Glycerol 3.00Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizing agents, perfume, dyes q.s.Water ad 100 2. Hydrodispersion gel Stearyl alcohol 2.00 Behenyl alcohol2.00 Ceramide 3 0.20 Taurodeoxycholic acid 0.10 Carbopol 0.30Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.40 Glycerol 3.00 Panthenol 1.00 Caprylic/caprictriglyceride 3.00 Isopropyl palmitate 3.00 Shea butter 2.00Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizing agents, perfume, dyes, q.s.Water ad 100 3. Light gel Sucrose stearate 3.00 Cetearyl alcohol 2.00Deoxycholic acid 0.02 Carbopol 0.50 Glycerol 3.00 Antioxidants,preservatives, neutralizing agents, perfume, dyes q.s. Water ad 100 4.O/W cream Sucrose stearate 4.00 Sucrose laurate 2.00 Taurolithocholicacid 0.02 Cetearyl alcohol 3.00 Glycerol 3.00 Dimethicone 2.00 Mineraloil 5.00 Isopropyl palmitate 3.00 Sunflower oil 3.00 Hydrogenatedcoconut fatty acid glyceride 2.50 Liquorice root extract 2.00 Carbomer0.20 NaOH 45% strength 0.10 Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizingagents, perfume, dyes q.s. Water ad 100 5. O/W lotion Stearic acid 1.50Sorbitan monostearate 0.50 Ursodeoxycholic acid 0.05 Myristyl alcohol1.00 Glycerol monostearate 0.50 Paraffin oil, subliquidum 10.00 Dimethicone 1.00 Octyldodecanol 2.00 Hydrogenated coconut fatty acidglyceride 0.50 Carbomer 0.10 Serine 0.50 Glycerol 5.00 Tocopherolacetate 0.50 Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizing agents, perfume,dyes q.s. Water ad 100 6. W/O lotion PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil 4.00Glycocholic acid 0.01 Beeswax 3.00 Vaseline 4.00 Ozokerite 4.00 Paraffinoil, subliquidum 10.00  Glycerol 5.00 Octyl methoxycinnamate 2.50Methylbenzylidenecamphor 2.50 Tocopherol acetate 1.00 Magnesium sulfate7 H₂O 0.70 Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizing agents, perfume,dyes q.s. Water ad 100 7. W/O cream PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil 4.00Wool wax alcohol 1.50 Deoxycholic acid 0.05 Vaseline 9.00 Ozokerite 4.00Paraffin oil, subliquidum 10.00  Urea 10.00  Magnesiumsulfate 7 H₂O 0.70Lactic acid 0.30 Sodium lactate 2.50 Antioxidants, preservatives,neutralizing agents, perfume, dyes q.s. Water ad 100 8. Siliconeemulsion Dimethicone copolyol 2.00 Cyclomethicone 5.00 Dimethicone 3.0 Paraffin oil, subliquidum 8.00 Wheatgerm oil 4.0  Dehydrocholic acid0.02 Glycerol 10.0  Sodium chloride 1.00 Antioxidants, preservatives,neutralizing agents, perfume, dyes q.s. Water ad 100 9. OintmentVaseline 36.00  Ceresine 10.00  Zinc oxide 4.00 Wheatgerm oil 20.00 Taurocholic acid 0.02 Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizing agents,perfume, dyes q.s. Paraffin oil ad 100 10. Skin oil Cetyl palmitate 3.00C_(12–15) Alkyl benzoate 2.00 Polyisobutene 10.00  Squalane 2.00Ursodeoxycholic acid 0.05 Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizingagents, perfume, dyes q.s. Paraffin oil ad 100 11. Bath oil Paraffin oil20.00  PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 5.00 Deoxycholic acid 0.50Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizing agents, perfume, dyes q.s.Soybean oil ad 100 12. Lip care stick Caprylic/capric triglyceride25.00  Octyldodecanol 25.00  Ceramide 3 0.50 Ursodeoxycholic acid 0.20Beeswax 20.00  Cetyl palmitate 8.00 Jojoba oil 5.00 Carnauba wax 4.00Tocopherol acetate 0.75 Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizingagents, perfume, dyes q.s. Squalane ad 100 13. Emulsion lip care stickCaprylic/capric triglyceride 30.00  Octyldodecanol 20.00  Polyglyceryl-3dioleate 3.50 Beeswax 10.00  Dehydrocholic acid 0.10 C_(20–40) Alkylstearate 5.00 Jojoba oil 5.00 Carnauba wax 2.00 Tocopherol acetate 0.75Water 5.00 Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizing agents, perfume,dyes q.s. Squalane ad 100 14. Lipstick Caprylic/capric triglyceride22.00  Octyldodecanol 22.00  Ursodeoxycholic acid 0.20 PEG-5 soya sterol0.50 Beeswax hydrolysate 5.00 Beeswax 15.00  Cetyl palmitate 2.00 Jojobaoil 5.00 Carnauba wax 2.00 Tocopherol acetate 0.75 Color pigments, colorlakes, titanium dioxide q.s. Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizingagents, perfume, dyes q.s. Squalane ad 100 15. Emulsion foundationSorbitan monostearate 1.50 Sorbitan monooleate 1.00 Glycerolmonostearate 1.00 Taurocholic acid 0.20 Glyceryl lanolate 1.00 Paraffinoil, subliquidum 7.00 Octyldodecanol 7.00 Hydrogenated coconut fattyacid glyceride 4.00 Octyl methoxycinnamate 2.00Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 1.00 Carbomer 0.10 Glycerol 5.001,3-Butylene glycol 2.00 Tocopherol acetate 1.00 Sodium octenylsuccinate starch (Amiogum ® from 2.50 American Maize-ProductsCompany/CERSTAR) Magnesium silicate 1.00 Mica 1.00 Iron oxide 1.00Titanium dioxide 2.50 Talc 5.00 Antioxidants, preservatives,neutralizing agents, perfume, dyes q.s. Water ad 100 16. Haircarecomposition TEA - Cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen 30.00  Monoethanolaminelauryl sulfate 25.00  Almond oil 2.00 PEG-25 soya sterol 2.00Deoxycholic acid 0.20 Sodium chloride 1.00 Antioxidants, preservatives,neutralizing agents, perfume, dyes q.s. Water ad 100 17. Care shampooSodium lauryl sulfate 34.00  Disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate 6.00Cocoamidopropylbetaine 10.00  Lithocholic acid 0.02 Glycol distearate5.00 Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizing agents, perfume, dyesq.s. Water ad 100 18. Pump spray PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 2.00Glycerol 1.00 PEG-25 soja sterol 2.00 Glycocholic acid 0.02Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizing agents, perfume, dyes q.s.Water ad 100 19. Roll-on emulsion Triceteareth phosphate 0.30Octyldodecanol 2.00 C_(12–15) Alkyl benzoate 2.00 C_(10–30) Alkylacrylate 0.15 Taurolithocholic acid 0.05 Antioxidants, preservatives,neutralizing agents, perfume, dyes q.s. Water ad 100

1. A cosmetic and/or dermatological preparation comprising a bile acidor salt thereof in an amount of about 0.01% to about 0.5% by weight,based on the total weight of the preparation, wherein the salt isselected from the group consisting of alkali metal and alkaline earthmetal salts, salts of mono- or divalent cations of elements from thetransition groups, salts of mono- or divalent cations of elements fromthe lanthanides, salts of mono or divalent cations of elements from theactinides, salts of ammonium (—NH3), and salts of basic amino acids,wherein said bile acid is selected from the group consisting ofdehydrocholic acid, lithocholic acid, cholic acid, glycocholic acid,taurolithocholic acid, ursodeoxycholic acid and taurocholic acid whereinthe bile acid or salt thereof is in an encapsulated form selected fromthe group consisting of collagen matrices, cellulose encapsulations,gelatin, wax matrices, and liposomal encapsulations.
 2. The preparationaccording to claim 1, further comprising cosmetic or dermatologicalauxiliaries, selected from the group consisting of antioxidants, UV-A orUV-B filter compounds, inorganic pigments, and mixtures thereof.
 3. Thepreparation according to claim 1, wherein the encapsulated form is inthe form of a solution.
 4. A method for strengthening the barrierfunction of the skin that comprises applying a barrier strengtheningeffective amount of a preparation of claim 1 to the skin.
 5. Thepreparation of claim 1, further comprising antioxidants in an amount of1–10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
 6. Thepreparation of claim 1, further comprising vitamin E and/or derivativesthereof in an amount of 0.001–10% by weight, based on the total weightof the preparation.
 7. The preparation of claim 6, wherein said vitaminE and/or derivatives thereof is tocopheryl acetate.